Back in January, we delved into how hybrid grape varieties are developed. Now, we’ll look into a brief history of hybrid grapes in Europe and why they might be our future.
The Species
While there are dozens of documented & recognized species of grapes worldwide, the two we’ll be looking at today are Vitis vinifera and Vitis Labrusca. The most common by far, V. vinifera is a species native to Europe and the grape responsible for 90% of wine grape varieties and most seedless table grapes. V. labrusca, on the other hand, is native to North America, and is known for the grape varieties Niagara and Concord and the origin of the “grapey” flavor found in juices & jellies.
The History
In the mid-to-late-1800s, an American grape vine (likely V. labrusca) was introduced to Europe. Unbeknownst to and unfortunately for the Europeans, a small aphid, phylloxera, was also along for the ride. Phylloxera feed on the roots and leaves of grape vines – a pest for the native North American V. labrusca,but a death sentence for the previously unexposed European V. vinifera.
The phylloxera spread through European vineyards like a wildfire, eating every vine in their path and leaving the plants exposed to fungal infections. Europe’s crops were decimated, leaving the vintners no choice but to either adapt or lose their livelihoods.
Their options were simple: either crossbreed the V. vinifera and V. labrusca varieties or graft the trunk of V. vinifera onto the rootstock of the pest resistant V. labrusca. While most winemakers chose to graft the two species, some winemakers chose to embrace the pest resistant hybrid varieties. The Europeans winemakers, however, deemed the fruit of the North American varieties to be inferior and made for poor winemaking grapes. By 1935, hybrid grapes were officially banned in France and soon, the rest of Europe. At first, farmers were paid to uproot their hybrids, but when that didn’t prove nearly effective, fines were imposed and some vintners were arrested. By the 1960s, nearly all hybrids were destroyed, leaving only the grafted V. vinifera on the rootstock of the V. labrusca. This is a ban that has held until very recently in 2021 when there was a partial lift.
Why the Change?
In the past decade, there has been an ever-growing movement of sustainability worldwide. In an effort to reduce reliance on pesticides & herbicides, the EU has allowed the introduction of six American varieties into vineyards: Clinton, Othello, Noah, Isabelle, Jacquez and Herbemont. The hope is that these naturally disease and pest resistant varieties will reduce the spraying of chemicals.
There’s another reason for the shift. Climate change has led to unpredictable weather patterns – including periods of drought and excessive rainfall that V. vinifera varieties are less able to withstand. Poor harvests in recent years have led European vintners to hope American grape vines may be the answer.
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